We carry a variety of seed starting tools and essentials. Here’s what you’ll need to start your own seeds:
- Seeds – Choose whatever strikes your fancy. We carry a variety of flowers, herbs and vegetables.
- Soilless Seed Starter – Like Black Gold Seedling Mix
- Containers – New or used. Used containers should be washed and disinfected with a 1 part bleach, 10 part water solution.
- Clear Plastic Covers, Plastic Bags or Plastic Wrap – Again, new or disinfected.
- Labels – Memory aids are important. Plastic sticks or Popsicle sticks can be used.
- Spray Bottle/mister – To gently water the seedlings.
- Light source – Either a bright window, a full-spectrum plant light or one 40-watt warm light bulb and one 40-watt cool light bulb used in tandem placed 18 inches above seedling tray. Never place seedlings in direct light.
- Other useful items: Seedling warming mat (or a refrigerator) and flour sifter.
Choosing which seeds to start is just the beginning of all the fun!
Once you have gathered your materials, plan your timing carefully. Starting too soon or too late can lead to pitiful crops. Cool growing can be started as early as the end of January depending on when you intend to transplant them out-of-doors. Check the last spring frost for your region, read the back of the seed packet for germination instructions and plan accordingly.
Prepare your containers by filling to within a quarter of the top with the loosened, lumpless and pre-dampened (but not sopping) seed starter mixture, tapping the sides to settle the mix – do not press into the containers.
There are many different methods for germinating seeds depending on their needs for light, warmth and/or moisture. Always consult the seed packet label for the details. Note if the seeds you are starting need special preparation such as freezing or soaking to germinate. Below are the most common three.
| Method 1 | Method 2 | Method 3 |
| These seeds can be pressed lightly into the seedling mixture and covered ONLY if the seeds do not need light for germination (refer to packet label). | Roughen the surface of the soil and sprinkle the seeds onto the surface. Make sure at least three seeds are used per container. Cover lightly with soil or vermiculate as suggested on seed packet label (a flour sifter works great for this). | Create a hole with a pencil to the depth recommended on the packet label and drop 2 seeds into each hole. Cover lightly. If seeding multiples within the same container allow a space between according to the directions on the packet. |
*More seeds are used than wanted because not all seeds will germinate and not all that germinate will survive. Always thin after germination.
Water the seeds using a spray mist, or if top watering will dislodge seeds, place the container(s) into a water basin filled a couple inches being careful not to oversoak the soil.
Baby Rhubarb seedlings burst into the light!
Cover with the container(s) or tray(s) with the clear plastic of your choosing to create a mini-greenhouse while still allowing air circulation. Providing bottom heat will hasten germination and promote vigorous root growth.
Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the clear plastic and place in whatever lighting situation you have devised. Sixteen hours of light a day is recommended for strongest growth. If providing artificial light, use an automatic timer to provide regularity. Rotate daily. Young seedlings should be kept moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering will encourage fungus gnats and cause damping off (death by rot). Those on seedling mats may need to be watered more frequently.
Leftover seeds can be stored for the next season in airtight containers in your refrigerator. Place a desiccant (such as those silicone packages that come in vitamin containers) in with the seeds to prevent moisture accumulation. Some seeds such as larkspur, sweet alyssum, Icelandic and California poppies can be directly sown outside. Wait until the ground thaws a bit and depending on your elevation you can sow seeds toward the end of February or mid-to-late March.
Gardening in the Rocky Mountains by John Cretti was used in the writing of this article.
